Tag Archives: chapeau de bras or collapsible bicorne

Exploring Construction of the Elusive Bicorne.

Analysis of Inner Structure of a Chapeau de Bras Bicorne - worn by ZiZi Bleu.

Analysis of Inner Structure of a Chapeau de Bras Bicorne – worn by ZiZi Bleu.

With gilded lips, golden soulful eyes, and her cheeks rouged blue – Zizi Bleu models a miniature toile for the inner structure of The Elusive Bicorne – or, in this case – The Elusive Chapeau de Bras.

A kind Blue Bonnet and her son, schooled in the construction of chapeaus de bras, helpfully directed my attention to the Robert J. Moore, Jr. and Michael Haynes book – Lewis and Clark:  Tailor Made, Trail Worn – Army Life, Clothing, and Weapons of the Corps of Discovery.  I saw therein a chapeau de bras, unfolded and freed to reveal the inner hat (which rests within its taco-shell-like facade).

Yet to be discovered – whether the inner cap should be cut separately, or if it is possible to cut the hat as two large pieces:  front and half-cap, back and half-cap.  According to Tailor Made, Trail Worn – the actual parts are:  crown (cap or fez), cock (front), and fan (back)… with the back “fan” crescent cut slightly taller than the front crescent.

Chapeau de Bras Interesting Fact – examining Chapeau Bras (generally from militia officers) within museum collections, average dimensions are these:  15.5-inches to 23-inches wide – lower tip to tip – and 7.5-inches to 13.5-inches from hatband to fan-peak.  (pp.168,169)

See more Zizi Bleu moments in posts at the blogs Toile La La and Art Fashion Creation.  See here a recent Art Fashion Creation post – and hat – inspired by Diana Vreeland’s eye for something-never-seen-before.

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A Chapeau de Bras of One’s Own.

Oh, how I want to create one of my own.  Any suggestions, advice, book recommendations, or chapeau de bras millinery construction diagrams would be appreciated more than anyone could ever imagine!  The collapsible chapeau de bras is foremost in the brain of mine (which I yearn to cover with one of these magnificent hats!)  But learning how to construct a bicorne would be (nearly) equally wonderful.

My goal in constructing a chapeau de bras is simply that I want to learn how (and also want to know how my round head will look beneath such a fantastically grandiose hat!)  Cosplay, Larp, and Reenactment are areas I’ve only recently studied – but I think surely there are milliners and costumers out there who might be able to help me achieve this personal millinery goal.  I love these types of discussion and always believe the comments you leave here may also benefit someone else as well.

Here’s a link to my Toile La La at Art Fashion Creation post about the splendid chapeau de bras, bicorne, and cocked hat.  Enjoy there – at Art Fashion Creation – all the great hat images, and if you too have seen Master and Commander and appreciated the hats – please leave a comment.  If you’ve made your own chapeau de bras or collapsible bicorne (or even a blocked and steamed regular bicorne), I would love to see your comments below this post – do please tell me how you constructed the spectacular thing!

1805 Chapeau de Bras or Bicorne Hat image.

1805 Chapeau de Bras or Bicorne Hat image.

Bicorne and Chapeau de Bras, Stadlinger 1856.

Bicorne and Chapeau de Bras, Stadlinger 1856.

1800 Chapeau de Bras image.  Collapsible Chapeau de Bras carried beneath the arm.

1800 Chapeau de Bras image. Collapsible Chapeau de Bras carried beneath the arm.

1831 Journal des Dames et des Modes image Chapeau de Bras or Bicorne hat.

1831 Journal des Dames et des Modes image Chapeau de Bras or Bicorne hat.

There are many more chapeau de bras, bicorne, collapsible bicorne, and cocked hat images at the Art Fashion Creation above –  third paragraph of this post.

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