Category Archives: fashion design

Dresses and Hats – more.

desktop note:

“When not in…

I am to be found at

Art Fashion Creation or

Toile La La or

Worn Written Drawn.”

but, in retrospect, here are Five dresses, hats, or dresses and hats posts:

The Mia Dress.

The Edwardian Dress.

A Klimt, Bakst, Delaunay Moment.

Headlong into Hats:  Millinery Adventures.

Head Full of Art and Hats.

Your comments, I always look forward to receiving – your suggestions, your tips… Speak Your Mind , my loves.

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The Formidably Artistic Chic of Sculptress Princess Pignatelli.

Anna Maria dei principi d’Aragona Pignatelli di Terranova di Cortes – also known as Manana (the future, or tomorrow) – jumped out of the pages of a vintage Life September 19, 1949 magazine – as I was appreciating the magazine’s impressive color-print quality.  When I saw her, I recognized the kindred soul of an artist… and a very flamboyant soul.  Spectacular!

Here she is for you to observe too.

Manana in Life magazine September 19, 1949.

Manana in Life magazine September 19, 1949.

Mysterious, Avant Garde, Bizarre… Anna Maria dei principi d’Aragona Pignatelli di Terranova di Cortes looks as if creativity emanates from her every pore.

There is more information here at this Rocaille link – which leads me to think – perhaps Manana is seated next to one of her own sculptures.

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1937 Life Cover – Veiled Lilly Dache.

Alfred Eisenstadt photo, Lilly Dache hat, Janet MacLeod model - Life magazine cover October 18, 1937.

Alfred Eisenstadt photo, Lilly Dache hat, Janet MacLeod model – Life magazine cover October 18, 1937.

Like one of the gorgeous millinery designs in Joe Wright’s Anna Karenina.  Read more at Art Fashion Creation.

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The Eighteenth Century Calash Bonnet.

The November 2012 Vogue issue includes an interesting Bidding Farewell essay by Hamish Bowles, giving account of his love for artful objects and the process of downsizing / refining his collection via a Bonhams auction.

Bowles says: “I feel that I can confidently say that I may well have been the only nine-year-old in the country who knew what a calash was – let alone possessed one.”  We can probably agree with him.

For some time though, the calash has fascinated me with its similarity to the folding canopy of wagons of that time – and also for its similarity to hoop or crinoline skirts.  Ribbed, the calash – or caleche (“carriage” in French) – bonnet was collapsible and worn to protect elaborate, towering and / or large hairstyles of the eighteenth century.

It is interesting to note that within the same magazine is a very pretty Chanel advertisement, with a bonnet looking quite like a calash:


Chanel advertisement with bonnet quite like a calash or caleche. November 2012 Vogue.

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Tracing the Origin of Fashion Trends.

Analyzing fashion trends, one must wear many hats – so to speak.  Pinpointing the birth of fashion trend phenomena requires the keen observation skills of the anthropologist, the historian, and the detective –  the keen eye of an artist – a finely-honed memory – and an aptitude for research. 

Tracing  fashion trend footprints back to their origin often leads to not just one, but many sources.

Today’s world, with its media archives, museums, vast libraries, and digital sources – presents infinite design inspiration.   Compare this to fashion design of the distant past – which referenced and mimicked dress of the nobility, for instance, or new developments in textiles, or architectural silhouettes.  

Now, we frequently see the reemergence of fashion trends and of style silhouettes – sometimes with no divergence from the original – if it is at all possible to pinpoint “the” original. 

One might be justified in saying the trends resulting from certain social climates and cultural conditions will likely reoccur when similar social climates and cultural condition exist.  However, even keen observation of these conditions may overlook “trend pockets” or fashion subcultures (goth, steampunk, or cosplay enthusiasts for example).

Whether it is possible to accurately forecast fashion trends years ahead of time – is a question that arises.   It is possible to assess social conditions, popular culture, market analyses, textile, technological, and production innovations… (to name a few determinant factors), and then make an informed prediction.  

Ultimately, without literally seeing into the future – without knowing the events, iconic personalities, or innovations of the future – we cannot give a definitive forecast.

However, here are three ways we can view the evolution of fashion trends:

  1. We can view the development of fashion trends of the recent past.
  2. We can see the development of fashion trends in the near future.
  3. We can observe the often prescient view of the future through the eyes of film visionaries, and we can expect to see at least a few trends occur as a direct result of these films.

How Fashion Reflects The TimesThe Origin of Trends – an Art Fashion Creation link to a scholarly paper analyzing  the development of fashion trends in the recent past.  Written in the ’90s –  viewing the development of trends to that point and predicting trends for the year 2000.

Predicting Future Fashion TrendsCostume Design in Futuristic Films, an August 27 2012 article by Katarina Gligorijevic – published at Toronto Film Scene.

Predicting Future Fashion, Doe Deere Blogazine December 15 interview with fashion trend forecaster Glendy Del Cid.

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Bob Dylan’s Leopard Skin Pillbox Hat.

Have you ever heard the song?

Dylan sings:

“Well, you must tell me baby

How your head feels under somethin like that

Under your brand new

leopard skin pill box hat

Well, you look so pretty in it

Honey, can I jump on it sometime

Yes, I just wanna see if it’s

really that expensive kind”

The lyrics are humorous. The last bit makes the hat sound a lot bigger than a pillbox hat, though: “… it balances on your head, Just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine”.

I’ve tried to imagine a really chic leopard skin hat.  However the thought of Dylan jumping up and down on a hat, testing its worth, produces a more interesting image than any leopard skin pillbox hat.

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Dresses and Hats: In Search of the Just Right for Now Designs.

Imagining this:

There I am in a chic city – right now – moderate temperature, a happy sun in the sky – not too intense, a bit of a breeze. I might walk to my destination, or perhaps take the metro, city bus, or a taxi and I don’t want to call the wrong type of attention to myself. The dress I’m postulating is modest. When I sit, it doesn’t ride up. Due to this dress, I have the look of a polished, well-put-together lady – with a head full of important and artistic thoughts. When I walk in the breeze, the dress moves gracefully around me, but doesn’t billow up – threatening exposure.

Now on my head I have a hat – there in that chic city – and I want it to stay on my head. Maybe, when I get to where I’m going, I’ll remove the hat – with a flourish – for a moment… so my hair should stay nice and neat beneath the hat. This hat doesn’t make my head hot, and this hat is small enough to allow other people to see around me – wherever I am. This hat stays on my head – even in an unexpected gust of wind – and should it rain, this hat is not forever ruined. This hat also makes me look like a polished, well-put-together lady – with a head full of important and artistic thoughts.

As I breeze past, onlookers think – my goodness, what an interesting lady… I wonder what she’s thinking.

Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis.

A dress and a hat to embody the persona of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis… in essence, refined. However, the Cassini/Halston look of the sixties requires some twenty-first century mindset to fit into today’s context.

For daytime, substitute a clever-something for the pearls. I think the daytime accessory should read “smart”, not “pricey”.  Notice, Jackie’s hat is brimless. I’m postulating a just-right-for-now hat with a brim, to provide a little shade. “Just right” would be a hat with a brim not so large that I have to turn my head to see you from the corner of my eye. “Just right” would be a hat with a brim small enough to allow me to wear super-sized shades when I desire privacy.

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